16 days in New Zealand
- Adventuring Lauren
- Mar 28
- 25 min read
This is everything you might need to know about a trip to New Zealand. We went in Nov. 2024 and would recommend this time to anyone! The weather is a little iffy but prices are slightly lower as it is still shoulder season!
Quick Links
Pre-Departure
We flew from our home airport to Auckland Airport (AKL). New Zealand is a long haul, so I recommend looking for flights at least 6 months out. We spent $1,046 on our airline tickets for two people round trip. We booked with American Airlines on the way there and Hawaiian Airlines on the way back.
We found these flights using DailyDropPro, a service that sends you flight deals when prices drop. It costs $150 a year, but we’ve easily made that money back multiple times over just from purchasing one of their deals.
Items You Might Not Think About Packing—But Should!
When it comes to packing for New Zealand, there are a few "must-haves" that often slip through the cracks but will absolutely save your trip.
Car adapter-Since we spent so much time on the road and hitting the trails, a car adapter was non-negotiable for keeping our phone charged.
Packable cooler became our best friend for daily road trip snacks and stocking up at grocery stores.
Water shoes/Chacos- New Zealand has amazing beautiful coast line but it can be quite rocky.
Turkish towel- having this saved on our butts on so many days. It dries quickly and takes up zero space in your bag.
Sun hat/Beanie-prepare for the "four seasons in one day" weather by packing the ultimate headwear duo: a sun hat to protect you from the intense NZ rays and a beanie for those sudden mountain chills.
Here’s a checklist of everything else I packed (feel free to save and print for your own use):
What luggage we used:
Both my husband and I packed in our Samsonite Mother Lode Travel Backpacks. We’ve had these for six years and absolutely love them! We use them a ton, and they were perfect for this trip as we where moving so frequently.
Car Rental
We had to make a big decision: the classic campervan life or a standard rental car. We ultimately opted for a rental car through a local New Zealand company called Omega, and honestly, we had a great experience! Choosing a car over an RV came with some major perks, specifically when it came to our budget and ease of travel. It was much easier to park and maneuver through those narrow, winding mountain passes, and the financial savings were huge—our total rental cost was only $698 for the entire trip. We also saved significantly on gas and ferry crossing fees compared to what we would have paid for a massive motorhome.
Plus, unlike some rental companies with strict island-hopping restrictions, Omega allows you to take your car directly onto the ferry between the North and South Islands, which made our transition across the Cook Strait totally seamless. Another huge bonus was that they provided unbranded vehicles with no company logos, which gave us a bit more peace of mind regarding security while parked at trailheads. They also included unlimited kilometers and no charge for extra drivers, giving us the total freedom to explore every hidden lookout on our own timeline without the bulk of a heavy rig.
Of course, there were a couple of trade-offs to consider with this setup. For one, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road, and adjusting to that in a standard vehicle can be a bit of a mental workout at first. Additionally, because we weren't sleeping in a van, we had much less flexibility to spontaneously change our destination for the night; we were tied to our hotel bookings rather than just finding a scenic spot to park.
Here is a checklist of the most practical things to remember before you pick up the keys and head into the mountains:
Audit Your Insurance Options: Don’t just blindly tick the "full coverage" box at the rental counter. Check if you have a premium credit card (like a Chase Sapphire Reserve , Capital Venture X, or Amex Platinum) that offers primary rental car insurance. This can save you $30–$40 NZD per day. Just be sure to decline the rental company’s collision damage waiver (CDW) and pay for the entire rental with that specific card to activate the benefit.
Get an E-Sim Before You Land: Don't rely on expensive roaming or hunting for a physical SIM card at the airport. Download an E-Sim (like Airalo) before you arrive. It’s significantly cheaper, and you’ll have data the second you touch down to pull up your rental confirmation and navigation.
Book a High-Clearance Vehicle: If your itinerary includes spots like the Rob Roy Glacier or remote trailheads, skip the compact economy car. You’ll encounter unpaved gravel roads and small ford crossings that can easily scrape the undercarriage of a low-clearance vehicle.
Download Offline Maps: Even with a great E-Sim, you will lose cell service the moment you head into the Southern Alps or deep into Tongariro National Park. Download the entire South Island on Google Maps before you leave your hotel Wi-Fi so you aren't flying blind.
Physical License is Non-Negotiable: Most New Zealand rental agencies require your physical driver's license. If your license isn't in English, you must have a certified translation or an International Driving Permit (IDP) ready to show at the counter.
Check the Ferry Logistics: If you plan to travel between islands, book your ferry slot months in advance. Many rental companies prefer a "drop and swap"—leaving one car at the Wellington terminal and picking up a fresh one in Picton—to avoid the high cost of shipping the vehicle across the strait.
Factor in "Kiwi Time": If GPS says a drive takes three hours, give yourself four. Between the narrow two-lane highways, one-way bridges, and the inevitable sheep-induced traffic jams, you’ll move much slower than you expect.
The Trip
Places We Stayed
We moved around quite a bit to see both islands and in all honestly we were exhausted. Looking back we would have cut a place or two so we could have slowed down. Here is the list of hotels we used (Prices are for Nov 2024):
Auckland City Hotel – $146.94 Located right in the heart of the CBD, this was the perfect landing spot after our long-haul flight. It’s set in a beautiful heritage building but has modern rooms, and being walking distance to the Sky Tower and great cafes made our first night super easy and the staff was great.
Urban Lounge Sleepery (Rotorua) – $116.47 This is very budget-friendly "sleepery" in Auckland. It has a younger vibe and honestly not our cup of tea. Our private room felt like a college dorm room and the staff wasn't helpful. For one night it was fine, but not for any longer.
eMotel (Taupo) – $103.19 A very sleek, modern take on the classic Kiwi motel. It was super clean, and its location in Taupo meant we were just minutes away from the lakefront and restaurants. This also had the most comfortable bed of the whole trip
Ramada by Wyndham (Wellington) – $107.32 You really can’t beat the reliability of a Ramada. This spot was close to the cable cars and to the ferry dock, giving us a comfortable place to rest for our quick stay. There is extremely limited parking which was an issue for us.
Goldbay Hideaway (Golden Bay) – $146.25 This was one of the most peaceful stays of the trip. Tucked away in the Abel Tasman/Golden Bay area, it felt like a true retreat. It was the perfect place to disconnect and enjoy the stars. However the drive here was quiet long. If you decide to stay here, stay at least 3 nights.
Kaiteriteri Abel Tasman Inlet – $49.92 This was our most budget-friendly stay! It’s all about the location here. It was nice spot and one that was cost effective.
Panorama Motel (Kaikoura) – $120.50 one of the most gorgeous places we stayed and we honestly wished we had spent more time here. It is towards the edge of town but right on the water with beautiful views of the ocean and mountains. Parking was easy.
Bealey Hotel (Arthur's Pass) – $124.22 A classic mountain hotel with incredible views of the Waimakariri River and the Southern Alps. It has that cozy, "mountain lodge" feel that you definitely want when staying in Arthur’s Pass. Even when we lost power, the workers were amazing and brought us extra, blankets, snacks and lights.
Sunshine Suites (Tekapo) – $145.28 These suites were bright, modern, and offered plenty of space. Since Tekapo is a Dark Sky Reserve, staying somewhere with a bit of a view is a must for stargazing from your front door.
Hawea Hotel (outside of Wanka) – $248.55 for two nights. It sits right on the edge of Lake Hawea (which is even more blue than Wanaka, in my opinion). The onsite restaurant is great, and the balcony views are unmatched.
Heartland Hotel Queenstown – $150.27 This hotel has a unique "Swiss chalet" style architecture that fits the Queenstown vibe perfectly. It’s elevated just enough to give you a great view of Lake Wakatipu while still being a quick walk into the town center. However it was extremely loud in the mornings and parking is pretty bad.
Parklands Motel (Te Anau) – $193.52 for two nights. The perfect "gateway to the fiords" stay. It’s quiet, spacious, and the staff were amazing at helping us prep for our early morning drive into Milford Sound.
Local Guest Room Jack’s Point – $75.60 For our final night, we stayed in a private guest room in the Jack’s Point area. It’s a stunning, high-end community just outside Queenstown, surrounded by The Remarkables mountain range. We stayed here instead of Queenstown, because we happened to be in town when the marathon was happening and lodging in Queenstown was quite high.
Day by Day Breakdown
Day 1: Arrival in Auckland & Waiheke Island
We touched down at Auckland Airport (AKL) at 7am after the long haul from DFW.
🗒️ Note: We did exchange money at the airport thinking we would need it for parking or tolls. We did not. I still would exchange a few small bills just to have some cash on hand but everywhere we went took credit cards.
We headed straight to the Auckland City Hotel to drop our bags. Since we didn't want to worry about parking just yet, we spent our first day as pedestrians! To get to the ferry, we took a quick 10-minute walk from our hotel down to the Auckland Ferry Terminal at 99 Quay Street. It’s a beautiful historic building, so you can't miss it. We hopped on the Fullers360 ferry, which is a stunning 40-minute ride across the Hauraki Gulf.
Once we docked at Matiatia Wharf on the island, we found a little bike shack right there in the parking lot and rented bikes. This was the best decision ever because those Waiheke hills are no joke! We spent the day hopping between wineries: we started at Wild Estate for a fun, relaxed vibe, moved next door to the iconic Stonyridge (which feels like the south of France), and then visited Postage Stamp Wines for some incredible small-batch tastings. We ended the perfect first day with dinner at The Heke Kitchen, where the food was fresh and the atmosphere was buzzing. It was the perfect, low-key way to shake off the jet lag before the real driving began.
Day 2: Picking up the Rig & Heading to the Shire
After a good night's sleep, it was officially time to start the road trip! We headed to Omega Rental Cars in Auckland to pick up our ride for the next 15 days. Once we had the keys and everything was loaded, we made a quick stop at Melba Cafe on our way out of Auckland—the coffee was the perfect fuel for our first day on the left side of the road.
Our first adventure kicked off at Wairere Falls. As the tallest waterfall in the North Island, the climb is no joke, but the hike through moss-covered rocks and dense native bush felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. We rewarded ourselves with the view from the top before heading to a bucket-list icon.
We finished the day with a visit to the Hobbiton Movie Set, which was easily a top 5 experience of the whole trip. If you’re planning a visit, here is the practical lowdown:
Book in Advance: This isn't a "show up and buy a ticket" spot. Tours sell out weeks in advance, especially for mid-day slots.
The New Experience: You can now actually go inside the Hobbit Holes! The attention to detail in the curated interiors—from the tiny chimneys to the hand-painted jars—is mind-blowing.
The Tour Flow: Expect to spend about 2.5 hours on the guided tour. It ends at the Green Dragon Inn, where you get a complimentary ginger beer, cider, or ale. It’s the perfect way to soak in the atmosphere of the Shire.
Photo Tip: The guides are experts at knowing the best angles for Bag End, so don’t be shy about asking them to snap a photo for you.
Afterward, we completed the drive to Rotorua we checked into Urban Lounge Sleepery and rewarded ourselves with dinner at The Fainting Goat. It’s a fantastic gastropub with an awesome atmosphere—exactly what we needed to recap our first big day on the road over some great food.
Day 3: Mud Spas & Sailing the Lake
We started our third day with breakfast at The Artisan Cafe in Rotorua—the perfect spot to fuel up before a day of exploring the area's famous geothermal activity. Afterward, we headed to Hell's Gate Geothermal Reserve and Mud Spa. This place is incredible; you’re surrounded by steaming vents and bubbling pools before you get to hop into the sulfur mud baths yourself. It’s a bit of a surreal experience, but it leaves your skin feeling amazing!
After we were fully "mud-pampered," we drove out to Kerosene Creek (this is completely free!!) for a natural hot spring soak. It’s a heated river that flows into a waterfall, and soaking in the middle of a lush forest is pure magic. My husband preferred the more natural hot spring compared to Hell's Gate.
We ended the day in Taupo by jumping on the Sail Barbary eco-sailing trip. It was so peaceful being out on the water, and seeing the massive Maori Rock Carvings from the deck of a sailboat as the sun lowered was the perfect way to end the day. We stayed the night at the eMotel and would highly recommend it. It is close to town and had everything you might need at such a great price.
Day 4: Waterfalls & The Windy City
We kicked off the morning with the Taranaki Falls track in Tongariro National Park. If you’re looking for a hike that delivers maximum "Middle-earth" vibes without a grueling uphill climb, this is the one. It’s a relatively easy 6km loop that takes you through a stunning mix of tussock grasslands and beech forests, all with the dramatic, snow-capped peaks of Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngāuruhoe (Mount Doom) towering in the background. This was completely free and a wonderful quick hike!
"Windy Welly" is known as the coolest little capital in the world, and you can really feel that young, creative energy in the streets. It’s packed with craft beer bars and a coffee culture that puts most cities to shame. However, the traffic here is absolutely crazy! Because the city is squeezed between steep hills and the harbor, the narrow, winding streets create some serious bottlenecks, so give yourself plenty of time to navigate. Once we made it through the gridlock, we took the iconic Wellington Cable Car for incredible panoramic views of the harbor and finished the night with fresh, handmade pasta at 1154 Pastaria. If you love a lively, communal vibe, this spot is a must! The Ramada was perfect for our one night and included a washer/dryer which was perfect to do a quick load! Parking was a problem here though and something to be aware of.
Day 5: Crossing the Cook Strait to the South Island
We traded the North Island for the South today, starting with the Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferry ($175.94 for the car and passengers). The 3.5-hour journey is often called one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world, especially as you cruise through the stunning Marlborough Sounds toward Picton. You can buy private cabins for the journey but we did not and sat in the cafe area.
‼️ However, a huge word of warning for anyone booking this: the Cook Strait is notorious for being one of the most unpredictable stretches of water in the world. Cancellations due to high swells or rough weather are common, and because the ferries are often fully booked days in advance, a cancellation can seriously derail your itinerary. Always check the weather alerts on the morning of your trip and have a "Plan B" (and some sea sickness tablets!) just in case. ‼️
Once we safely touched down in Picton, we began the scenic drive toward Golden Bay. On the way, we stopped at Neudorf Vineyards in Upper Moutere. It’s a gorgeous, family-run spot famous for its world-class Chardonnay. We spent a relaxed hour in their sun-drenched wine garden, tucked away among majestic trees and rolling hills. It was the perfect "welcome to the South Island" moment before tackling the winding road over Takaka Hill to our next home base.
‼️Word of note this is a long drive and a long day. While Golden Bay and our accomadation was beautiful we would not do this again.
Day 6: Sailing the Abel Tasman
The water in Abel Tasman National Park is an unbelievable turquoise. We booked the Half Day Catamaran Adventure with Abel Tasman Sailing Adventures It was the perfect mix of relaxation and activity—we sailed out to see the famous Split Apple Rock and then hiked back along the coastal track, which offered incredible views of the golden beaches. Even in the pouring rain this was a beautiful national park that doesn't allow cars! The only way in is by boat or foot!!
We stayed in the Inlet area (a steal of a deal at $50 a night) and grabbed dinner at The Beached Whale, which was a very cute local spot. We were too early for most restaurants to be open for the season.
Day 7: Craft Beer & Coastal Views
After a whirlwind first week, we decided Day 7 was the perfect time for a slow morning. We slept in, recharged our batteries, and enjoyed a lazy start before hitting the road again. On our way out of the Nelson region, we made a pit stop at the Moa Tap Room. It’s such a cool spot to sample some local craft brews—the vibe is super relaxed, and it was the perfect "liquid fuel" (for the passenger, of course!) before the scenic drive over to the East Coast.
The drive to Kaikoura is absolutely stunning, with the rugged coastline on one side and mountains on the other. We checked into our room at the Panorama Motel, and the name definitely lived up to the hype—the views of the turquoise ocean meeting the snow-capped peaks were unreal. To wrap up the day, we headed into town for dinner at The Strawberry Tree. This place is a Kaikoura icon; it’s a quirky, Irish-style pub with an awesome outdoor garden and a cozy atmosphere. It was the perfect spot to grab a meal and listen to some live music before tucking in for the night.
Day 8: Dolphins, Boulders, and a Storm to Remember
We started the morning with what ended up being the single most amazing moment of our entire travels: Encounter Kaikōura. We headed out into the open Pacific just as the sun was beginning to hit the Kaikōura ranges, and the experience was nothing short of life-changing.
Swimming with dusky dolphins in their natural habitat is pure, unadulterated magic. These aren't just animals you're watching from a distance; they are incredibly social and curious. The second you hit the water, you are surrounded by dozens—sometimes hundreds—of them. They swim right up to you, looking you in the eye, spinning and diving as if they’re inviting you to play. We spent the morning whistling and singing through our snorkels to get their attention, and seeing them leap and somersault just inches away is a core memory we’ll hold onto forever.
For those looking to add this to their itinerary, here are the practical logistics to keep in mind:
Book Well Ahead: This is one of the most popular tours in New Zealand. Slots fill up weeks in advance, especially the early morning tours which often have the calmest sea conditions.
The "Chilly" Reality: It is an early start (often a 5:30 AM or 8:30 AM check-in), and the Pacific Ocean is brisk, averaging around 13°C to 18°C. The tour provides thick 5mm wetsuits, hoods, and booties, which do a great job of keeping you warm once you're moving.
Sea Sickness is Real: You are heading into the open ocean, not a sheltered bay. Even on "calm" days, the swells can be significant. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take a preventative tablet an hour before boarding. I took two pills and was ok but several people on our boat were not that lucky.
The "Social" Trick: The guides will tell you that the more noise and movement you make, the more the dolphins will interact. Don't be shy—making ridiculous chirping noises through your snorkel really does work to keep them circling back to you.
Photo Strategy: While you can bring a GoPro, we found it’s almost better to just be "in the moment" for the first drop-in. The dolphins move incredibly fast, and focusing on a screen can take away from the eye-to-eye contact that makes this so special.
After this we headed into the Southern Alps. We stopped at Castle Hill (Kura Tawhiti), which looks like something straight out of a fantasy movie. These massive limestone rock formations are scattered across the hillside like a giant's playground. You can spend hours weaving through the "natural castle" corridors—it’s no wonder they filmed parts of The Chronicles of Narnia here.We eventually made it to the Bealey Hotel in Arthur’s Pass to settle in for the night, but Mother Nature had other plans. That evening, we witnessed some truly historic rain. The Alps are known for their weather, but this was next level—the downpour was so intense that the entire hotel actually lost power. We spent the evening in the dark mountain lodge, listening to the rain hammer against the roof and feeling truly off the grid in the heart of the wilderness. It was one of those "only in New Zealand" travel memories that turned a simple overnight stay into a real adventure!
Day 9: The Great Weather Pivot & The Sea of Lupins
Waking up at the Bealey Hotel, we quickly realized that the historic rain from the night before had completely rewritten our itinerary. Our original plan was to head toward Franz Josef, but Mother Nature had other ideas—the downpour was so intense it caused major washouts and slips, shutting down a huge portion of the main highway. We later found out that section of the road ended up being closed for nearly two weeks!
In New Zealand, you have to be ready to pivot, so we made the call to backtrack and head toward Lake Tekapo instead. While we were bummed to miss the glaciers, the detour turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We arrived just in time for the peak of the Lupin season.
If you haven’t seen the Tekapo lupins in person, pictures truly don’t do them justice. The shores of the turquoise lake were covered in an explosion of pink, purple, and blue wildflowers. Walking through the sea of lupins with the snow-capped Southern Alps in the background felt like stepping into a postcard. We spent the afternoon wandering near the Church of the Good Shepherd, soaking in those famous views and feeling pretty grateful that our "plan B" turned out to be so incredibly beautiful. We found a last-minute affordable accommodation at the Sunshine Suites which was perfect! It was the perfect reminder that sometimes the best travel moments are the ones you never actually planned!
Day 10: Aoraki & The Hidden Gem of Hāwea
After the incredible colors of Tekapo, we headed further into the heart of the Southern Alps to visit Aoraki. Using the dual name is so important here—Aoraki is the traditional Māori name, meaning "Cloud Piercer," and looking up at that 3,724-meter peak, you can see exactly why. It is the tallest mountain in New Zealand and has a presence that feels almost spiritual.
‼️If you are planning to visit, the biggest piece of advice we can give is to get there early. This is one of the most popular spots in the country, and the parking lot at the Hooker Valley trailhead fills up fast. By mid-morning, cars are often backed up a long way down the access road. Arriving at sunrise not only guarantees you a spot but also lets you experience the trail in peace before the tour buses arrive.‼️
We spent the day hiking the Hooker Valley Track, a relatively flat 10km return journey that leads you over three epic suspension bridges and crossing over rushing glacial rivers. The final payoff is reaching the glacial lake at the base of Aoraki, where we sat and watched massive icebergs floating in the water while the mountain towered over us.
After a full day in the presence of the mountains, we made the drive south to our home for the night: Lake Hāwea. We stayed at the Hawea Hotel, and honestly, it felt like we’d discovered a local secret. If you’re looking for those world-class Otago views without the premium price tag, Lake Hāwea is the answer. It’s located just 15 minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Wanaka, but it feels worlds apart in terms of tranquility. You get the same dramatic alpine scenery and impossibly blue water, but at a much more accessible price point. Sitting on the deck of the hotel as the sun dipped behind the peaks was the perfect, quiet way to end one of our favorite days on the road.
Day 11: The Rob Roy Glacier Track
After a peaceful night in Hāwea, we headed deep into the Matukituki Valley for the Rob Roy Glacier Track. This hike is a total showstopper, leading you through lush beech forests to a massive alpine amphitheater of hanging glaciers and cascading waterfalls. Standing at the lookout, watching the ancient blue ice cling to the cliffs, is a perspective that makes you feel incredibly small in the best way possible.
What makes this track so special is that it offers a completely different experience than the more famous "Roy’s Peak" trek that everyone does for the Instagram shot; while Roy's Peak is all about the lake views and the climb, Rob Roy gets you up close and personal with raw, glacial power and dramatic mountain face-offs.
⚠️However, a huge word of caution for the drive in: the unpaved road to the Raspberry Creek car park is a mission. It’s a long, gravel stretch with several ford crossings that are not made for low-clearance vehicles. If you’re in a standard rental car, you’ll need to drive incredibly slowly and keep a sharp eye on water levels.⚠️
After conquering the trail and the gravel roads, we headed back into Wanaka to refuel at Speight’s Ale House. There is nothing better than a hearty "Southern Man" meal and a cold glass of Speight’s gold after a big day of hiking. With its warm, woody interior and massive portions of blue cod and venison, it was the perfect spot to toast to another successful day in the Southern Alps.
Day 12: Queenstown & The Gibbston Valley
From the quiet solitude of the glaciers, we transitioned into the high-energy hub of Queenstown. On our way into town, we took a slow detour through the Gibbston Valley, known as the "Valley of the Vines." We stopped at Gibbston Valley Winery for a tasting and then visited Wet Jacket Wines, which has a tasting room right on the water. If you’re a fan of Central Otago Pinot Noir, this stretch of road is absolute heaven.
Once we actually hit the heart of Queenstown, the vibe shifted immediately. It’s undeniably beautiful, nestled right against Lake Wakatipu, but we quickly realized that the "Adventure Capital of the World" is incredibly touristy. Between the massive crowds, the constant hum of jet boats, and the highly commercialized feel of the waterfront, it wasn't really our cup of tea. It felt a bit like a mountain-themed theme park—great if you love a buzzing party atmosphere and endless activities, but a bit overwhelming after the peaceful wilderness we’d grown used to. Our hotel, the Heartland was beautiful but for sure had a lot of noise (human and traffic) all hours of the night with a bus beeping roughly starting at 6am. Parking was also a bit tight.
That said, the food scene is top-tier. For a quick bite, we grabbed some gluten-free goodness at Erik’s Fish and Chips—their battered kiwi is a must-try for something unique! For dinner, we headed to Flame Bar & Grill. Known for its South African-inspired ribs and steaks, it was the perfect place to tuck into a hearty meal and watch the sunset over the lake. Even if the crowds weren't our favorite, the flavors at Flame definitely made the stop worthwhile.
Day 13: Arrowtown Gold & Subterranean Stars
We escaped the Queenstown bustle early and drove just 20 minutes to the charming historic village of Arrowtown. It felt like stepping back in time to the gold rush era, but with much better coffee! We started the morning with an incredible breakfast at The Dishery. Tucked right by the river with a gorgeous garden setting, the food was as stunning as the view. It was the perfect, quiet fuel-up before we spent the morning wandering through the heritage streets.
While exploring the local shops, I found a beautiful Pounamu (Jade) necklace. New Zealand greenstone is so deeply tied to the spirit of the islands, and picking one out in such a historic town felt like the perfect way to carry a piece of this journey with me. Afterward, we walked through the Historic Arrowtown Chinese Settlement Click to open side panel for more information . It’s a sobering but fascinating look into the lives of the Chinese miners who lived in tiny stone huts along the creek in the 1880s—a powerful reminder of the grit it took to build this region.
From Arrowtown, we began the scenic three-hour drive south to Te Anau, the gateway to Fiordland. We stayed at the Parkland Motel and it was wonderful. Clean, bright and close to town! We ended our day underground at the Te Anau Glowworm Caves. The experience starts with a boat cruise across the lake before you enter a silent, pitch-black grotto. Drifting through the caves while thousands of tiny glowworms glittered above us like a subterranean galaxy was absolutely breathtaking. It was a day of two halves—rich history in the morning and pure natural wonder in the evening.
Day 14: Milford Sound – The Eighth Wonder of the World
We saved one of the biggest bucket-list items for the end, and Milford Sound (Piopiotahi) did not disappoint. The drive from Te Anau is an adventure in itself, taking you through the Homer Tunnel and into a world of sheer cliffs and hundreds of temporary waterfalls cascading down the rock faces after the recent rains.
🅿️This was one of the very places where you pay for parking (they take credit card) and it does feel up extremely fast! If you are driving yourself I would book one of the earliest tours possible to make sure you get parking!
When it came to the water, we booked our tour with Cruise Milford, and it was hands-down the best decision we could have made. While the massive tour boats nearby were packed to the brim with hundreds of people, our experience was the complete opposite. Because they use smaller, more agile boats, we had an incredibly intimate trip with very few people on board (There were 15 people on a boat that holds 75)! I think being on the first boat out in the morning also helped!
It felt like we had the fiord to ourselves! We were able to move freely around the deck for photos without fighting for a view, and the captain was able to nose the boat right up under the waterfalls—close enough to feel the glacial spray on our faces. One of the best parts of the boutique experience was the hospitality; they served complimentary tea, coffee, and delicious cookies while we cruised. There was something so cozy about warming up with a hot drink and a sweet treat while staring out at the mist-covered mountains.
The highlight of the entire cruise, though, was the wildlife. Not only did we see fur seals sunning themselves on the rocks, but we were lucky enough to spot penguins! Seeing those little guys navigating the rugged coastline was absolutely amazing and felt like a rare gift from the fiord. If you want to experience the grandeur of Milford without the "conveyor belt" feel of the larger companies, this is the only way to do it.
To cap off an unforgettable day, we headed to Thai Anau Restaurant & Take Away for dinner. After the crisp air of the fiord, a warm, flavorful meal was exactly what we needed.
The restaurant has a great, cozy atmosphere and is clearly a local favorite—it was buzzing when we arrived. We tucked into some authentic Thai comfort food; the portions were incredibly generous, and the spice levels were spot on.
Day 15: A Slow Goodbye to Te Anau & The Calm of Jack’s Point
We decided Day 15 was all about moving at a "Te Anau pace." We took it incredibly slow, starting the morning with a long, peaceful walk along the lakefront. The water was like glass, reflecting the mountains we’d just explored. We made a stop at the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre, which is such a wealth of knowledge; it really helps you appreciate the sheer scale and geological history of the wilderness you're standing in.
Of course, we couldn't leave town without one last Kiwi essential: meat hand pies. We grabbed a couple of flaky, gold-standard pies (shout out to Miles Better Pies for the Lamb & Mint!) and sat by the water to soak in the last of the Fiordland vibes.
Eventually, it was time to hit the road for the two-hour drive toward Queenstown. However, instead of heading into the heart of the city, we checked into our stay at Jack’s Point. Staying here was a total pro-move; the Queenstown Marathon was happening that weekend, and accommodation in the town center was costing an absolute arm and a leg.
Jack’s Point is only about 15–20 minutes outside of Queenstown, but it feels like a different world.
Nestled right at the base of The Remarkables, it’s modern, quiet, and surrounded by rugged mountain scenery. It was the perfect middle ground—close enough to pop into town if we needed to, but far enough away to avoid the marathon crowds and keep our budget intact. Watching the sunset hit the jagged peaks of the Remarkables from our doorstep was the best possible way to end the day.
Day 16: The Longest Day... Literally
We officially entered a time warp for our final leg of the journey. Day 16 was, without exaggeration, the longest day of our lives. We started the morning by returning our rental car in Queenstown and catching our flight north.
✈️ Pro-tip for the Queenstown departure: If you are flying out, make sure to sit on the left side of the plane. The views as you climb out over the Southern Alps and Lake Wakatipu are absolutely world-class—it’s like one final, epic highlight reel of the South Island from above. ✈️
We landed in Auckland for a full-day layover, but our original plans to tour the city's iconic sites hit a bit of a snag. There were large protests happening throughout the city center, making it nearly impossible to get around. We had to pivot, so we spent the day at a local shopping center and hit some balls at a driving range to kill time. It wasn't the "grand finale" we had planned for Auckland, but it kept us moving during the long wait.
At 11:00 PM, we finally boarded our long-haul flight... and this is where the magic (and the exhaustion) happened. Thanks to crossing the International Date Line, we flew through the night only to land at 8:00 AM on the exact same day in Hawaii. We essentially gained an entire day of life, though our internal clocks were definitely protesting!
With a 4-hour layover in Honolulu, we weren't about to sit in the terminal. We hopped in a cab and made a quick, moving visit to Pearl Harbor National Memorial. Standing at such a historic site was a powerful way to spend our few hours on American soil before heading back to the airport for the final flight home. By the time we actually touched down for good, we had been "living" Day 16 for nearly 48 hours. Exhausted? Yes. Amazing? Also yes
Budget Breakdown and Final thoughts
While we covered an incredible amount of ground from the tip of the North Island to the deep south, the sheer pace of a 16-day cross-country trek taught us a lot about the art of travel. By the time we reached those quiet mornings in Te Anau, we realized that while the "big hits" are exhilarating, the moments that really stuck with us were the ones where we actually had time to breathe. Pushing through long 6 hour driving days and navigating busy cities reminded us that sometimes the best part of New Zealand isn't the next destination on the map, but the ability to sit still and watch the light change on a glacier or a lakefront.
As mid-range travelers, we’ve always valued comfort, but we learned that "comfort" also means having the time to enjoy the beautiful stays we paid for. If we were to do it all over again, we would have traded a few of those long driving days for an extra night in the places that felt like home.
Reflections on the Road
Strategic Stays Save Substantially: Choosing locations just 15–20 minutes outside the main tourist hubs (like Hāwea or Jack’s Point) rewarded us with a "local" price point and a much more tranquil, authentic atmosphere.
Prioritize Boutique over Big: Choosing smaller operators like Cruise Milford or the "un-touristy" Rob Roy Glacier track over the crowded hotspots provided a much deeper, more personal connection to the landscape.
Invest in the Journey: New Zealand's beauty is often hidden behind unpaved roads and long drives; investing in a reliable vehicle and full insurance is essential for peace of mind when navigating gravel stretches and river fords.
Embrace the Pivot: Whether it was missing Auckland sites due to protests or having to skip Franz Josef due to historic weather, some of our favorite memories came from slowing down and finding the quiet corners of the country.
What We’d Change Next Time
Build in "Buffer" Days: We would add at least two "zero-drive" days into the itinerary—one in each island—specifically to enjoy a local cafe, do some laundry, and just exist in the landscape without a GPS telling us where to go next.
Fly Directly to the South: While the North Island has its magic (looking at you, Hobbiton!), the South Island's scale is so massive that we’d consider skipping the long drive to Wellington, returning to Auckland after visiting Hobbiton and flying straight into Christchurch or Queenstown to give ourselves more time in the South Island.
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